Well, quite simply put, they are light, strong and do not rust!
With the advancement of R/C batteries these days, most R/C cars are finding it difficult to get to the bottom weight limit, and sometimes even those that are right on the limit could do with some weight shifting to give the car a better balance. Also weigh reduction in moving parts will also increase dynamic efficiency of your R/C car.
In order to give all you racers out there an idea the actual weight benefit of Titanium screws over kit steel screws, we have painstakingly (:P) created the following comparison chart (per screw):
|Button Head||Steel (grams)||Titanium (grams)*||% Reduction|
|Countersunk||Steel (grams)||Titanium (grams)*||% Reduction|
* Typical weight of respective screws.
Titanium RC parts generally comes in 2 grades. Grade 2 pure titanium and Grade 5 Titanium alloy, so what is the difference?
To keep pricing to a competitive level, 90% of the titaniun screws in the RC market are made from Grade 2 Titanium. Grade 2 Titanium screws are made by cold forge process so they can be mass produced forged and therefore their prices are relatively affordable. They are strong and saves you almost half the weight compared with steel.
For premium parts like our premium hinge pins and axles, Grade 5 Titanium alloy are chosen. This stuff is too hard to be easily formed so each part using Grade 5 Titanium alloy will have to be individually CNC machined. They are much harder than Grade 2 titanium while offering same weight saving but with unsurpassed precision.
What to use and where?
For ultimate weight reduction go Aluminium, around 25% lighter than titanium but they are very soft and will not offer a long servicible life no matter what grade. Recommended use in low stress areas like to decorate your radio transmitter etc. ;)
For good weight saving and strength comparable to 304 stainless steel, go titanium. Use Grade 2 for general use from low-medium- to relatively high stress applications, and Grade 5 for speical machined screws (TBA) or custom parts such as axles and pins (Note: We do not account for stresses caused by over torquing the screw or crashing!).
For ultimate strength, there is nothing stonger than hardended steel screws (Note" not the kit stuff) - we are currently looking into bringing out a range for all you crash monkeys out there so you can go like Mad Max!
Tips, tricks of the trade will be posted here!
MoodyFools' first tip: Don't crash!
Use the correct tool!
Most cars now days uses Metric screws and that is all we sell. Plase do not use Imperial drivers even though some will just about fit.
The screws we sell uses the following drivers:
M2 - 1.2mm or 0.050" driver
M2.5 - 1.5mm hex driver
M3 - 2.0mm hex driver
M4 - 2.5mm hex driver
Always use a servicable driver with a sharp hex pattern! Titanium screws are softer than steel screws and if your hex tools tips are worn in anyway, change the tip to for new one to avoid risk of rounding off the hex head. Worn tools may be ok for steel screws but they can easily mess up titanium screws. If your tool have been used on Steel or Stainless steel screws before, we highly recommend that you change your tool tip for a new one when upgrading to Titanium screws, a small bit of investment will go a long way protecting your screws.
Do not use excessive force. I often see people over torque their steel screws thus damaging the thread of whatever they are screwing in to. With titanium screws not only the same could happen, but you can also damage the hex head too. Try holding the driver with three fingers instead of using your whole fist, turn the screw until resistance is felt, and then another quarter turn would normally suffice.
Right screw for the right job:
We do not recommend you use titanium screws for high stress areas such as mounting motors and certain types of hinge pin blocks where upon high impact they can result in bending. In thses areas steel/stainless steel or carbon steel is recommended.
To thread lock or not to thread lock?
We generally do not recommend thread lock for building model cars in general except in some special places like locking of UJ pins. However, if you have to use thread lock of any kind, we recommend that you use the blue one made by Tamiya as it is probably one mild enough to allow disassembly.
Screwing into hard plastics:
When screwing into hard plastics such as gear diffs or carbon loaded plastics for the first time, we recommend that you use the supplied steel screw first to gently tap the thread into the hard plasticpart, and always putting a little lubricant such as bearing oil or shock oil into the hole first. When done, remove the steel screw and replace it with the titanium screw.
How to measure a screw?
In general, the length of a screw is measured from where the assumed mounting surface is, to the end of the screw itself.
This means different type of screws may be measured differently: